Designer Debuts
by Alice Fashion History Runway Deep Dive
Following the parade of designer debuts during this past fashion week, we were reminded of some of the other foundational moments in fashion history where houses changed hands. Some of these debuts were met with triumph, while others were met with confusion. Scroll to see where it all started...
*Note from the Editor: You might say - "Hey, where's Tom Ford for Gucci and John Galliano for Dior!" while reading this list. While we love and appreciate their debuts - it's not exactly unexplored territory at this point...*
Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel Haute Couture 1983
Much has been said about what Chanel is or isn't these past few days. When Karl Lagerfeld debuted as the Chief Designer of Chanel in 1983, his show leaned heavily on the brand's history and origins from the 1920s and 1930s. (Even replicating jewelry pieces from the brand's initial heyday.) As a result, Karl went on to become as influential and synonymous with Chanel as Coco herself.
Alexander McQueen for Givenchy Haute Couture 1997
Alexander McQueen was just a baby when he was appointed Artistic Director of Givenchy in the fall of 1996. Taking over for John Galliano as he headed to Dior, McQueen presented a couture collection that demonstrated how firmly established McQueen's perspective as a designer was early on. The use of feathers and architectural shapes - both familiar to McQueen's eponymous label - while still speaking to the opulence of Givenchy's history.
Stella McCartney for Chloe 1998
While McQueen was young, Stella McCartney was even younger. At 25, Stella took over as Creative Director from Karl Lagerfeld. Unlike many of these houses, whose history was tied to couture, Chloé was ready-to-wear from its founding. Offering an answer to easy, French girl cool that countered the older houses. Stella understood that as she presented barely there slips and iridescent corsets. A precursor to Pheobe Philo's time at the brand and current Creative Director Chemena Kamali's more recent collections.
Donatella Versace for Versace Spring 1998
A debut brought about by tragedy. Donatella Versace took over as Creative Director after the murder of her beloved brother, Gianni. Forever her brother's muse, it makes sense that Donatella would be the perfect person to carry on his legacy. Her first show was met with acclaim, as the industry rallied around her and celebrated the sleek, sexy Versace we know and love.
Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton Fall 1998
Marc Jacobs' debut for Louis Vuitton is a good example of giving a great designer time. You can see in these reserved and minimalist looks the bridge Jacobs was building between his breakout (and controversial) grunge time at Perry Ellis and the playful vibe he eventually brought to Louis Vuitton in the early 2000s. Add on top of that the fact that Jacobs' first collection - was also Louis Vuitton's first foray into ready-to-wear. In this 1998 collection you can see a brand and a designer finding their voice.
Alber Elbaz for Lanvin Fall 2002
A sleeper hit and one of my personal favorite designer tenors was Alber Elbaz for Lanvin. A tumultuous house that saw business ups and downs but creative highs from designers such as Claude Montana and Ocimar Versolato. Elbaz joined the brand in 2001 and brought the struggling French house into the 21st Century. The soft gathered tulle and twist on the classic A-line dress would be a style and silhouette that would dominate in fashion from the mid-aughts on.
Raf Simons for Dior Haute Couture 2012
After Matthieu Blazy debuted for Chanel last week - it felt only right to shout out his mentor, Raf Simons's debut at Dior. (I myself am also constantly thinking about Raf Simons at Jil Sander, but I digress...) Simon's took Dior's famous bar suit silhouette and made it strapless. Pairing it with a sharp cigarette pant and a neon lip. While the shapes scream Dior, the clean color blocking and striking styling reveal the subtle influence Simons had on 2010s fashion.
Photos // Vogue Runway
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