Runway Deep Dive: Gerard Pipart at Nina Ricci
For three decades, Gerard Pipart was the designer behind Nina Ricci’s bridal couture collections.
Whether it was Pipart’s ladylike take on puffed sleeves and voluminous skirts that defined the 80s, or his intricate detailing and embellishment that contrasted the 90s obsession with sleekness, Pipart’s dresses always felt suitable for the times, yet in a world all their own.
Left: Gerard Pipart, in hand with a model, closes the Spring 1986 Couture show. Right: A look from the Spring 1991 show.
In bridal, so much focus is on “the dress” that few designers (and even fewer brides) take much risk when it comes to accessorizing. In both looks above, the accessories complete the look.
The large oversized floral headpiece on the gown from the ’86 collection and the skinny headband and hoop earrings from the ’91 look add personality and playfulness.
Left: Pipart with a model in the Spring 1996 Couture runway. Right: A look from the 1996/97 Fall Couture show.
Although these two looks above are only a season apart, they could not be any more different.
The gown to the left from Spring ’96 is a youthful high-low style with feminine appliqués that would look perfect at a garden ceremony in South Pasadena. The sheer bodice and floral details remain beloved and are utilized in contemporary playful bridal lines like Honor. And somehow the large bow in her hair and the beaded choker work together — it’s exactly how I would wear it.
The gown to the right is grand and dramatic, with gold accented lace and a large, embellished bodice fit for royalty. Of all the pieces here, this seems to be the look with the closest relationship with current-day Nina Ricci under the creative direction of Harris Reed.
Though the silhouettes are worlds apart both represent Gerard Pipart's great vision during his time at Nina Ricci.
Photos: Getty Images
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