Oscar de la Renta was, for many years, the pinnacle of American fashion design. Elegant and modern. The first choice for First Ladies and ladies who lunch alike.

Balmain, founded by Pierre Balmain in 1945, on the other hand, was quintessentially European. Born in the haute couture houses of France. "The quintessence of haute couture,” as Diana Vreeland once said.

But ODLR's time at Balmain was like a very fashionable puzzle - different pieces, perfectly matched. 

Oscar de la Renta’s end-of-show bow for Spring 1994

Oscar was the first American (Dominican-American at that) to lead a French fashion house. Oscar headed Balmain’s haute couture from 1993 to 2002.

When Oscar took the reins at the age of 60, he remarked, “... I think it is great in old age to have new challenges.” (Agreed!)

The early '90s had not been kind to Balmain and haute couture as a whole. They were struggling to stay relevant in consumers' minds and speak to the modern woman's lifestyle. 

Oscar revitalized Balmain by understanding the women who were wearing the clothes. 

“She understands (clothes) and knows them because she knows what life is all about... by knowing what life is all about, she knows what her needs are and how she should dress”. - Oscar de la Renta

Christy Turlington for Balmain Haute Couture Fall 1993.

Clients were excited by Oscar’s vision for Balmain, not only for its beauty, but for its wearability.

Oscar married his signature opulence to crisp tailoring, with lush textiles and silhouettes, giving Balmain's clients what haute couture had been missing. 

At his debut Balmain couture show in January 1993, he told The Times, “I want to make clothes that people will wear, not styles that will make a big splash on the runway.” But, of course, he managed to achieve both. He turned to the Balmain archives from the '50s and '60s for his first collection in 1993. 

Sarah O’Hare (L) and Carla Bruni (R) pose in minimalist pieces from Oscar de la Renta first season for Balmain, Fall 1993. 

A sheer silvery-grey gown underneath a cropped knit emphasizes early '90s minimalism. A black chiffon gown floating down the runway, topped off with a heavy gold choker.

These looks stood out to me amongst a sea of color and volume in the rest of the collection. Refreshing breaths of clean design.

Balmain Haute Couture Spring/Summer 1994

Balmain Spring/Summer 1994 transported the viewer to a pastel ball in the French countryside.

Cinderella blues, powdery baby pinks, and crisp sage stripes in large ballgown skirts resembling taffeta and faille were accessorized with straw hats fastened with black ribbons, sheer wrist-length gloves, and lavender bouquets, as if the models had picked the bundle before stepping onto the runway. 

Carla Bruni traded the minimalism of the 1993 show for a pink dropwaist gown that cascaded with beads at the neckline, as though the gown were wearing a necklace itself, held up by two gold bows on either side.

Karen Mulder in Balmain Haute Couture Spring/Summer 1994

Karen Mulder’s blue gown practically glowing with the sheen on the skirt.

And when not showing ballgowns, the day dresses and separates emphasized Oscar’s understanding of tailoring and silhouette through crisp yet effortless suiting, sheer embroidered trousers, and lace-trimmed dresses.

Balmain Haute Couture Spring/Summer 1999/2000

Where Oscar bridal feels very classic and timeless now (think their iconic laser-cut floral gown), Oscar's Balmain bride was all about abundance and uniqueness.

From red paisley-trimmed hems from Spring/Summer 1999 (seen above) to feather-adorned, hooded, floor-length coats from Fall/Winter 1999/2000.

Balmain Spring/Summer 1994

Brides with gold feather trimmed necklines and tulle shawls in Spring/Summer 1994...

Balmain Haute Couture bridal from Spring 1997

...And a personal favorite of mine, a blush tulle delicacy, complete with slanted hat covered in coordinating tulle.

Carmen Kass in Balmain Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2000/2001

Or this iconic look from Fall/Winter 2000 that combined many of the elements that defined ODLR's tenure: Fur trim, floral brocades, topped off with a 3-D floral headpiece-veil creation.

After almost a decade at Balmain, Oscar de la Renta presented his final couture collection for the house in Fall 2002.

He remains one of the most celebrated designers for Balmain and is remembered for ushering the traditions of haute couture into the modern client's closet.