Runway Deep Dive: Polka Dots! ⚫️⚪️⚫️
by Alice Fashion History Shopping
Kate Moss in Polka Dots in the Todd Oldham Spring 1995 Ready to Wear Runway Show. // Getty
We've been seeing polka dots everywhere lately - from our FYP to Vogue.
While "polka dots" are being deemed the on-trend print of the summer - we think this classic will stick around - and, dare we say, never left in the first place! (See last year's "trend" of leopard print.)
So we thought we'd take a dive into the runway shows of yore and break down some of our favorite dotty moments of the past.
Yves Saint Laurent Spring 1991
Polka dots are newer than you might realize... An advent of the Industrial Revolution in America, which allowed garment manufacturers to create consistent, repeated patterns for the first time, polka dots first appeared in the 1800s. But they didn't rise in popularity until 1926 when then Miss. America, Norma Smallwood, wore a polka dot swimsuit.
Ever since, designers have taken this print and, despite its mechanical roots, added movement to create the "playful" identity polka dots have to this day. Here, YSL utilizes one of his signature voluminous ruffles to create a fun and flirty look.
Ralph Lauren Spring 2008
Ralph Lauren, American Sportswear King, is, of course, no stranger to the dot. Here, in his famous Spring 2008 show (you know, the one...), Lauren uses the print to undercut the aristocratic elements in the look. Top hat, tuxedo blouse, and cane. The head of the cane itself mimics the large format white dots on the skirt.
Givenchy Spring 1992
You'll see some familiar names throughout this story. Designers who count themselves among the ardent fans of the print. Hubert de Givenchy is one of those fans.
In this look, Givenchy employs some tricks, including playing with inverse colorways and scale, to add dimension to a head-to-toe polka dot look. The matching hat and jacket, paired with matching pants and shoes, create a color block effect in black and white.
Givenchy Spring 1993
The following spring, Givenchy yet again utilized polka dots, this time in one uniform scale accented with bold white collars, cuffs, and pockets.
You'll notice in both looks, the accessories mimic the shape without being matchy. The rounded white frames of these sunglasses or the oversized gold button earrings in the look from '92.
Valentino Spring 2001
In this look from 2001, Valentino layers sheer chiffon of polka dots to give the effect of movement, a double vision of dots. Paired with the clean and classic boatneck sweater, you can see the influence of this look (and the styling) into the late 2000s.
Emanuel Ungaro Spring 1988
Emanuel Ungaro is another polka dot devotee. Here, he uses the dot in multiple ways. On the lining of the blazer, subtly on the little gloves (I want those), and manipulating the pattern by pleating and ruching it on the dress underneath.
Emanuel Ungaro Fall 1988
Here, Ungaro uses the traditionally spring/summer print in a moody fall look. Red dots on black add a striking boldness, along with the perfectly 80s bubble hem and rosettes at the waist.
Emanuel Ungaro Spring 1989
While not technically polka dots, this look from the following Ungaro Spring season deserves a shoutout as well.
Utilizing more organic shapes, such as the leaf on the blouse and the gem-like form on the pants, in an organized pattern creates a polka dot effect that demands a second glance. I also think this butterscotch hue is due a comeback...
Todd Oldham Spring 1995
We can't talk about this playful print without talking about the crown prince of fashion fun, Todd Oldham. (No stranger here at the LP...) In the Spring 1995 show, Oldham employed old Hollywood silhouettes and styling with a decidedly 90s twist.
Here, the bombshell waves poof into a lightly unkempt 'do, and the classic 40s polka dot shirtdress, shown in a searing chartreuse, reveals a pair of matching pair of polka dot briefs when the model spins.
Versace Fall 1994
Lest you think polka dots are all sweet. In this look seen on bombshell Yasmeen Ghauri, Versace not only uses a classic white polka dot on black but also creates a polka dot of flesh with cutouts throughout the gown. Varying between dots of velvet and thigh, Versace produces an effect that's sultry and seductive.
Marc Jacobs Fall 2016
And lastly, I would be remise to not include one of our more modern day polka dot diehards, Marc Jacobs. While it was difficult to pick just one, (Honorable mentions to: Marc's 2013 Met Gala Look, Look 16 from Fall 2011, Look 20 or Look 23 from Fall 2024.) this look from Jacob's Fall 2016 collection stood out for its sheer number and ways of using polka dots.
Sheer swiss dot overlaying large format versions of the print. The angular patchwork of the dress in conversation with the spherical poloza. And, of course, polka dots that act as the body of spiders crawling on the model... This dress does it all!
So, what kind of polka dots will you be adding to your closet? Wanna snag the look?
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Photos // Getty
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