Runway Deep Dive: Todd Oldham
By Emily Dawsonby HI Fashion History Texas Week
Cindy Crawford walks the Fall 1994 Todd Oldham Ready to Wear Show.
Todd Oldham, Texas-born designer extraordinaire, rose to fashion fame in New York in the 80s. His designs are best known for their kaleidoscope colors, repeating patterns, and heaping embellishments. (Not to mention his very adorable friendship with Amy Sedaris...)
Any Oldham design that appears simple or straightforward is anything but.
His pieces involve hours of handwork, color dyeing, complicated embroidery, inventive fabrication techniques, and unusual materials.
Oldham is always testing the limits of textile technology and craft.
(Fun fact! I went to high school with Todd’s nephew, Presley Oldham, now an acclaimed jewelry designer. Presley was a CFDA 2024 nominee.)
Two models in Oldham's Spring 1993 show.
For Todd’s Spring 1993 show, he took inspiration from the Texas State Fair extravaganza.
In this collection he makes good on the old saying, “Everything is bigger in Texas.”
Big hair, geometric prints, and plunging necklines on the ‘93 runway.
Tyra Banks in Todd Oldham 1993
In his Fall 1994 collection, we see again just how far Oldham pushes his designs.
“If the knitter would tell me I can only use five colors, I talked them into 12,” said Oldham.
This striped dress shows the way Oldham elevates a classic. Stripes of alternating colors, varying tones and saturations.
In rebel form, Oldham never used animal products, and so was constantly having to find alternatives to things like leather and fur. (Mainstays especially in Texas where cattle is king.)
Cindy’s animal print coat (seen in the header image above) is an example of his utilization of non-animal materials.
This collection leaned heavily on the use of ultrasuede, a polyester material that fell out of vogue after rampant use by Halston and other copycats.
An ultrasuede look from the Fall 1994 Show
Here, Oldham utilizes the ultrasuede for a layered and laidback look.
The Spring 1995 shows off more of Oldham’s leveled-up techniques and artistry.
Shalom Harlow walks the Spring 1995 show.
The skirt that Shalom Harlow wore to close the show is entirely covered with prong-set Swarovski crystals.
A little transparent, barely there, but at the same time completely glittering with stones.
Zendaya’s look for the 2022 Oscars inspired Harlow’s.
Carla Bruni walks the Spring 1995 show.
Carla Bruni’s look also involved unique treatment of the materials. Stripes were hand-painted on the initially white dress's interior to create a soft, bleeding stripe effect.
Tyra Banks in Spring 1995
Tyra’s dress utilized sublimation printing techniques, which uses pressure and heat to create a pattern.
Spring 1995 Ready to Wear
So as we close out Texas week - raise a glass of Tito's to Todd Oldham.
Photo // Getty Images
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