Willi Smith for WilliWear
Recently, Law Roach walked the red carpet for the Fifteen Percent Pledge Gala, a fundraiser for the non-profit that focuses on commitment from retailers to dedicate at least fifteen percent of their shelf space to black-owned brands and businesses.
While Law Roach’s presence at the gala was no surprise, what he decided to wear was – to me at least. Law wore a vintage chocolate brown double-breasted suit by the late designer Willi Smith.
Willi Smith was a prominent voice in fashion in the 1970s and 80s and the most commercially successful black designer of the time. But after his death from HIV complications in 1987 – the fashion industry seemed to forget the young, successful wunderkind.
Pat Cleveland walks for WilliWear Fall 1973
My mother, formerly a junior dress buyer for the Texas department store Foley’s and fashion gal herself, did not forget. I grew up hearing my mom recount Willi Smith’s name alongside labels like Betsey Johnson and Fiorucci.
“He was designing for the street. Which totally made sense because all the fashion had flowed from the street in the late 60s and early 70s. Haight Ashbury in San Francisco had an important impact. And so did Carnaby Street in London.” - My mom on WilliWear by Willi Smith
Toukie Smith, model and Willi’s sister, models an early collection Willi Smith did for the Junior brand Digits - 1972
A diehard fan of his brand, WilliWear, my mom would bemoan WilliWear pieces she’d lost or donated over the years. (Most of all, a pair of Obi belt pants that she still talks about…)
Iman walks the Spring 1983 WilliWear Show
She was apparently not alone in this – when putting together the 2020 Willi Smith Retrospective for the Cooper Hewitt Museum, they kept hearing the same from all of Willi’s friends, family, and patrons, “I wish I still had my WilliWear, but I wore it out.”
WilliWear was meant to be loved. Lived in.
Willi Smith between two models in his designs - 1972
But one WilliWear piece of my mom’s that survived the cycles of life is an olive green cotton unstructured jacket. This jacket, somewhere between a 70s Saint Laurent safari jacket and a blazer, never once danced close to the donation pile.
My mom’s WilliWear Jacket with its iconic portrait tag -1976/77
It sat proudly in my mom’s closet next to the white linen skirt suit she wore for her wedding to my father. Unassuming as the jacket is, it always seemed special.
So whether you’re not familiar or you’re already a fan - let’s take a look at WilliWear by Willi Smith…
WilliWear Summer 1978 Presentation
Street couture was a phrase often used to describe WilliWear, (So much so Cooper Hewitt titled his retrospective, Willi Smith Street Couture.), his pieces were easy, different, cool.
WilliWear Spring 1981
WilliWear connected sportswear and streetwear – the latter of which was seen as far off the fashion path.
WilliWear Summer 1978 Presentation
Easy silhouettes, natural fabrics, soft suiting, and a unisex approach were hallmarks.
Dancer modeling WilliWear Spring 1986 in Senegal
Expelled from Parsons (for having a relationship with another male student) Willi Smith got his start in the fashion industry as an intern to famed couturier Arnold Scaasi.
WilliWear Fall 1979
Smith noted that while working for Scaasi, he learned the ins and outs of high-end clothes – and also learned that he had no interest in making them.
But Smith was not without his gown moments – per se. In 1967, he was hired to help sculptors Christo and Jeanne-Claude fabricate “The Wedding Dress,” which exists between garment, sculpture, and political statement.
“The Wedding Dress” by Christo and Jean-Claude -1967
In 1981, the Black Fashion Museum held a show entitled "Bridal Gowns by Black Designers." It featured an ensemble by Smith that included a cotton satin jacket and slim, tan velvet trousers.
Willi Smith’s Wedding Ensemble - 1979
And maybe most unique of all, Willi Smith (a long time comicbook fan) was the designer behind fictional character Mary Jane’s wedding gown in her wedding to Peter Parker in The Amazing Spider-Man Annual #21.
Willi’s sketch of Mary Jane’s gown
And that’s only the beginning – there’s Smith’s collaboration with artists like Keith Haring long before large brands had co-oped the late artist’s work, his subversive runway shows at places like Riker’s Island, his love of India and its textile design and manufacturing, and his long relationship with dance: using dancers as models and designing costumes for dance companies.
A dancer modeling WilliWear Spring 1979
I cannot cover the breadth of Willi Smith’s brief but impressive career – but I can encourage you to seek out more.
Toukie Smith in WilliWear Fall 1979
Whether that’s on a late-night runway deep dive or when you’re sleuthing for vintage finds – just let me know if you find the Obi belt pants; I know someone who's interested…
Willi Smith ❤️
