Illustration by Sharon Dennard

We do a lot of thinking about zippers here at Happy Isles.

Fixing them, replacing them, inspecting them to date a dress, and yes, sometimes cursing them when they’ve decided to stubbornly get stuck.

But I had yet to think about their history or provenance. Or their role in feminism.

The zipper first came to market in the early 1920s, initially used for men’s boots and jackets. It was thought to be scandalous to utilize zippers on women’s clothing. Easier to remove clothes = easier to have sex. Obviously. 

Wait ‘til I tell them about those Adidas breakaway pants…

Slowly, zippers made their way to women’s slacks. But it was only thought appropriate to wear said slacks around the house or for lounging. (If you want to hear more about the evolution of societal dress codes, I highly suggest you check out the Dressed Podcast or their Tiktok!)

A 1930s ad for zippers.

It wasn’t until the 1930s that Elsa Schiaparelli included zippers in her couture collection to try and popularize the now ubiquitous sewing notion.

In 1931, The Brooklyn Daily Eagle said Schiaparelli was “…modern in the real meaning of the term…” Her show included “…such practical details as clippers and zippers so that the modern woman who is always in a hurry need not bother about hooks and fastenings.”

Schiaparelli’s two zipper looks from the 1930s via The Metropolitan Museum of Art Archives.

Schiaparelli utilized colorful plastic zippers in her Avant Garde fashions as more of a design piece than a practical feature. Slowly, zippers became a welcome relief for modern women tired of the buttons, corsets, and other contraptions to which they were accustomed.

Which takes us into the 1950s. Where zippers on dresses became de rigueur. Not only that, but another mini revelation came fashion's way with the rise of the side zipper.

Now, I know we’ve all pinched ourselves quickly swiping up on a hidden zipper under our arm – but after we recover from the sting – realize that side zippers were actually a massive step in women’s independence when it came to clothing.

Women no longer had to rely on husbands or handmaids to help them get in and out of clothing.

Women could dress themselves.

Left: Elsa Schiaparelli in a zip front jacket, 1936. Right: Vivienne Westwood in a zip back tunic, 1983.

In a 1977 New York Times article about feminism's effect on fashion, they state that “Fashion was truly a dictator in those days, and women accepted it.”

To say fashion is political is not a groundbreaking statement. As women’s bodies are always a political fighting ground – it’s no wonder that what we put on those bodies can make such a statement.

Two Zippered Looks from Vivienne Westwood.

So now, I take a little outfit inventory.

I’m currently wearing Levi’s wide-leg jeans, my favorite Fiorucci sweatshirt, and flats. Blonde bob, no bra, chipped nail polish, no make-up. (Gimme a break, okay. It’s a writing day!)

Corsets gave way to the sportier Chanel look. Dresses gave way to bloomers, which gave way to trousers. Mini skirts. Midi skirts. Wrap dresses. Pantsuits. Denim.

All these staples of the modern woman’s closet have political beginnings.

So I look down at the zipper on my Levi’s.

A political moment in fashion often overlooked. A stack of political wins we all take for granted.

I look at the “I Voted” sticker on my sweatshirt. A political win I try to never take for granted.

Fiorucci + Democracy. Two of my favorite things.

So when you go to the polls. Look down at your body.

Your clothing. Your zippers.

See how far we’ve come and make sure we don’t go back.

Photos: Getty Images