Isaac Mizrahi is one of those unique fashion tales.

He was a wunderkind when he appeared on the scene in the ‘90s. His name was on every fashion person’s lips - yet the clothes did not sell.

Isaac burned fast and bright, only to re-emerge on QVC, Project Runway, and at your local Target store with one of earliest high/low collabs in 2003.  

And while you may know Isaac Mizrahi for his charismatic persona (I mean, have you seen his TikToks?) I thought it was time to revisit the early days of Isaac! 

Cindy Crawford in grey and black knits for Fall 1994.

Isaac attended Parsons School of Design, where, as a student, he worked for American sportswear designer Perry Ellis before launching his eponymous label in 1987.

Isaac Mizrahi is a 4-time CFDA award winner, including Best Newcomer and Designer of the Year for Womenswear in 1989 and 1991. (I also highly recommend checking out this week’s Kate’s Film Club Review of Unzipped for a rundown of the fab doc following Isaac as he prepped for his Fall 1994 show.)

When I think of Isaac Mizrahi collections, I think of sophisticated ‘90s New York women…

And I think about color. 

Backstage Fall 1994

Vibrant, punchy hot pinks, juicy oranges, lipstick reds, and ultraviolet purples are seen throughout the shows, speckled between charcoal greys and classic blacks that ground the looks in the ‘90s. (Also serves as a reminder to Isaac’s early days at Perry Ellis!) 

One of many ballgown skirt and knit looks that Isaac paired with little booties.

To Isaac, “...color is the biggest luxury there is. It affects you on a deep, emotional level that most people don’t think about. If you get the color right, you have the whole thing. If you get it wrong, it becomes a big distraction.”

T-shirts and jackets paired with voluminous ballgown skirts would become de rigueur on the red carpet by the time Isaac's label shuttered in 1998.

Isaac is a fan of luxe fabrications like heavy silk satins and taffetas, which lended themselves to the voluminous silhouettes he showed in '94 & '95.

But lest you think it was all puff, Isaac was known for pairing these voluminous pieces with contrasting items. Whether that be a chunky layered knit, a tailored jacket, or a classic white t-shirt.  

More fur trimmed booties in Fall 1994.

In Fall 1995, Mizrahi showed similar voluminous, showstopping skirts.

This time the skirts took on a more formal appearance in rich iridescent taffeta gowns with basque waists and fitted bodices.

A moire taffeta in vibrant hues filled Isaac's Fall 1995 show.

But never far from his sportswear roots, Isaac paired many of these gowns with colorful, thick scarves and shawls. 

This orangeish hot pink feels like a shock. Paired casually with a pink pashmina shawl.

The winter wear didn’t stop there.

Oversized velvet puffer coats were worn over slinky strapless tube dresses. Or in some cases, the puffer coat was the dress itself. 

The oversized velvet puffer feels luxe and modern.

I remember seeing the Isaac Mizrahi exhibit, Isaac Mizrahi: An Unruly History, in 2016 at the Jewish Museum.

I was fascinated by his wall of color swatches and fabrications that extended from floor to ceiling, and his fashion illustrations reminiscent of classic fashion houses of decades past.

The color swatch wall in Isaac Mizrahi: An Unruly History.

In the gallery notes, Guest Curator Chee Pearlman and Assistant Curator Kelly Taxter explain how “...above all, Mizrahi reimagines color as an entity in itself – unexpected, vibrant, expressive." 

More moire taffeta, this time in an ankle grazing gown.

Isaac Mizrahi’s looks often touched on bridal elements (basque waists, opera gloves, veils) while bringing his classic American Sportswear aesthetic to them. 

A fur trim white mini that Mizrahi showed at a charity fashion show in LA in 1994.

So while he did show select “bridal” looks over the years (including designing an exclusive line for Kleinfeld’s in 2011), Isaac’s gowns seen in Fall 1994 & 1995 really feel like they’re ready for their bridal moment. 

The closing look for Isaac's Fall 1994 collection.

And lest we ever forget the Isaac Mizrahi dress Rachel Zoe wore for her wedding… 

Rachel Zoe wearing Isaac Mizrahi for her 1996 wedding.

Thanks to the important historical record that is the Fashion Channel you can watch his Fall 1994 show here and of course, check out Unzipped!

Isaac Mizrahi bows at the end of Fall 1994.